We’ve all heard of “fight or flight,” that physiological response that gives us a burst of quick energy to cope with a dangerous situation or threat to our survival, either by getting away quickly (flight) or going on the offensive (fight).
Animals react the same way: think of watching a deer peacefully browsing on spring grasses, then she hears or sees you and takes off on a dead run. Or perhaps you’ve had the experience of accidentally surprising your sleeping cat, and he leaps up and hisses at you. Even though this response is automatic, it’s not always accurate. You weren’t a threat to the cat, but in those first few seconds after being abruptly awakened, he sensed that you were. In other words, he couldn’t tell the difference between a real threat and a perceived one.
In dogs, this can result in uncomfortable and sometimes even dangerous situations.
Which brings us to the subject of aggression.
According to the ASPCA, aggression is the biggest behavior problem in dogs, and is one of the most common reasons people have for relinquishing their dog to a shelter, or even going so far as to abandon it or have it euthanized.
Aggression — which can be directed toward either humans or other animals — involves a range of behaviors that usually begin with warnings like barking threateningly, lunging, growling and snarling. If ignored, these warnings can end up with an attack. (Note the word “can,” not “will.”)
The most common type of aggression is fear aggression, which typically involves these same defensive behaviors, but they’re based in fear. This type of aggression is most often shown toward humans or other dogs. The dog is afraid, so he employs whatever tactics he can to make the thing that’s scaring him go away. “Maybe you’ll leave me alone or stop doing what you’re doing if I can make you think I’m going to hurt you.” In many ways, he’s like the neighborhood bully, who underneath all the intimidation and nastiness is pretty much a quivering mass of Jell-O.
One of the worst things you can do is punish your dog for fear aggression. Punishment for being afraid only confuses your dog, makes a fearful situation even worse, and can create mistrust. On the other hand, making soft, cooing sounds and telling your dog not to be afraid is equally ineffective, as anyone who’s ever had to deal with a frightened child can attest. Telling someone not to feel what they’re feeling seldom works.
One of the key elements in preventing fear and fear aggression is socialization. Contrary to popular belief, abuse isn’t at the root of fear in most dogs: it’s lack of early socialization. Think of all the stories of dogs rescued from hoarding situations or puppy mills who are abnormally fearful and shy. Why? Because either they’ve never been exposed to the world of people and objects, or the exposure they’ve had is negative. They simply can’t trust the thing or person because it’s either unfamiliar or distressing.
If you encounter something you’ve never seen before or that’s never interacted with you in a positive way, you’re naturally going to be fearful of it. For a dog, that might be something as innocuous as a vacuum cleaner, which can appear to them as an advancing, roaring fiend. A hose or leash is an implement that delivers whips. Humans represent nothing even remotely resembling comfort or kindness, but instead embody indifference and neglect at best, or abuse at worst.
By contrast, socialization teaches a dog that the world is not a fearful place. Things and people and environments quickly become familiar, and familiarity produces relaxation and comfort. (Think of yourself, the very first time you faced a job interviewer or traveled to a foreign country or went on date. In the beginning, you were probably nervous and uncertain . . . but the more often you had the experience, the more comfortable and confident you likely became.)
For an unsocialized dog or one with fear-based aggression, that kind of learning takes time and patience. The technique that’s used most often to deal with these types of dogs is desensitization and counterconditioning. In a nutshell, it involves identifying the things, people or situations that cause your dog to become fearful, then getting him to associate pleasant, non-fearful sensations (like receiving a treat) with those things that caused fear.
This learning takes time and patience, and can often benefit from the involvement of a qualified pet behavior specialist. Two of the professional organizations that certify dog behavioral consultants are the Certification Council for Professional Dog Trainers (CCPDT) and the International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants (IAABC); to find a recognized behaviorist, start with a recommendation from your veterinarian. In our area, we’re fortunate to have several respected professionals as well as groups such as the UC Davis Behavior Clinic. There are also many good Web-based resources; the ASPCA’s article on desensitization and counterconditioning is a great place to start.
Joan Merriam lives in Nevada City with her Golden Retriever Joey, her Maine Coon cat Indy, and the abiding spirit of her beloved Golden Retriever Casey in whose memory this column is named. You can reach Joan at joan@joanmerriam.com. And if you’re looking for a Golden, be sure to check out Homeward Bound Golden Retriever Rescue .
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