Years ago I began exploring the belief that zinfandel might be the varietal to become one of the great red wines of the world, in step with pinot noir and cabernet sauvignon.For years I collected zinfandels from Ridge Vineyards after becoming acquainted with Paul Draper, the winemaker, who told me, "your idea is noble but you must strive for claret-style zins of elegance and proportion and not the high powered and late-harvest types."Now, in all fairness, I've tried all types, seeing if they would age to greatness ... But zinfandel needs to overcome its reputation for unrefinement.A new friend has …