The Sierra Buttes - Hike to the top of our world

For years I'd heard about people climbing the Sierra Buttes and going up the stairs to the fire lookout tower at the top. I used to think: "I could never do that." Well, I did it - in fact, I've done it about five times - and you can, too.

In case you don't know about the Buttes, they're just past Downieville and Sierra City in the Lakes Basin Recreation Area, less than one and a half hours from here, up Highway 49. These spectacular, craggy peaks, elevation 8,500 feet, tower over alpine lakes, rolling hills and green valleys. On a clear day, you can see Mount Shasta. I always say that this area is our own little Canadian Rockies, right up the road.

With the cooler fall weather here, it is a great time to do some hiking in the area before winter sets in. The higher elevation means that it's a chance to see some early fall colors and the hikes are easier than in the blazing heat of summer.

Just follow Highway 49 north past Downieville and five miles past Sierra City to Bassetts Station. Turn left at Bassetts onto Gold Lake Road. At the store at Bassetts, buy a map of the Lakes Basin Recreation Area for $2 that will show you all the hiking trails. I found this invaluable while hiking, though the trails are well marked. Bassetts is also famous for the size of their ice cream cones, so don't miss out on that treat before or after your hike. (I recommend the 'Tin Roof Sundae.')

If you want to tackle the Sierra Buttes Lookout Trail hike, drive up Gold Lake Road about one mile past Bassetts Station until you see the left turn to Sardine and Packer lakes. Follow the signs toward Packer Lake, then continue up the road to the parking lot for the Buttes trail. I recently completed this hike again for this story, with a friend who was visiting from sea level.

As you look up at the Sierra Buttes from the valley floor, you can see the lookout tower on the top. While this is not a beginner's hike, it can look way more intimidating than it actually is.

First of all, you drive up to a point where you only have to hike two and a half miles from the parking area, which helps a lot. You do cover more than 1,850 feet in elevation increase in the hike, so it is pretty much straight up.

My friend and I stopped every 15 minutes for a water break to avoid dehydration or possible altitude sickness for him. We always stopped in the shade and took our time. It took us two hours to go up and an hour to come down. We stopped at the top and ate lunch, so all in all, it took us about four hours to make the hike.

It was the first week in September and we ran into only two other hikers that day, Helen Stransky and Heidi Imfeld from Nevada City. They were celebrating Heidi's 80th birthday and have done the hike every year for the past five years. They made it to the top that day in one hour and 40 minutes. If you are feeling shy about doing the hike, take a lesson from Heidi and Helen. If they can do it, so can you.

For people who are in good physical shape and take their time going up, the views are spectacular. We could see the snow on Mount Shasta, the hills rolling off to the west, the lakes and rivers below, an uninterrupted 360-degree view.

At the lookout tower, there are about 160 steps up to the top. I wouldn't recommend this last part for anyone afraid of heights or with vertigo problems. But if you can do it, it is worth it for the view and the experience of feeling like you are on top of the world, which you are, at least in that corner of the world.

Be sure to wear good hiking boots and socks and carry lots of water; we each had two quarts, snacks and lunch. With fall here, carry a rain poncho and wear layers.

If you would like to hike in the area but don't want to go straight up, we tried out some easier hikes to offer as an alternative. Just drive down Gold Lake road, past Gold Lake to the left turn to Gold Lake Lodge. You will see a parking area for Round Lake Trail trailhead. Begin the trail, then take the Big Bear Lake turn off to the right and you will loop around past six lakes, the last one being Round Lake.

Round Lake was a perfect place to eat lunch and jump in for a quick refreshing dip before heading back. There are a few steep sections, but you only go up about 300 feet, compared to 1,850 feet for the Buttes. This whole loop took only about two hours total of hiking. This would be a good trail for kids and we saw hikers carrying their fishing poles.

After your day of hiking, you could reward yourself with a dinner at Packer Lake Lodge. The day we hiked, the chef, Rab McVie, who is from Scotland, created a moist chicken dish with pesto cream sauce that was delicious. It comes with vegetables, soup, salad and homemade bread and the lodge offers a cozy welcome after a day outdoors. They close for the season after Oct. 11th and the restaurant is closed on Tuesdays. Packer Lake is also a wonderful lake to cool off in after your hike up to the Buttes. There is a public area as you drive in toward the lodge. Just park and swim there.

Packer Lake Lodge is impossible to get into in the summer, but sometimes in the fall there are cancellations, especially mid-week. If you get the chance, don't miss it to stay in one of the quaint cabins.

If you can't get into Packer, try Gold Lake Lodge, or there are lots of places to stay in Sierra City and Downieville.

We're so lucky to have these mountains close by. In the fall, it is quiet, the crowds are gone, the aspens are turning and the lakes are still warm enough, especially after a hike, for a swim. It is not unusual to see an eagle soaring overhead as you float in the lake.

So pack up your family and head for the hills. They're just up the road, they're awesome and you'll love it.

ooo

Diane Covington is a free-lance writer living in Nevada City.